A
Brief History of Native
American Jewelry in the Southwest
Archeological
evidence shows that turquoise found in Hohokam
excavations in southern Arizona dates back to
200 B.C., even though turquoise, as a mineral
deposit, is found in only a limited region of
the American Southwest. Other stones were used
as well, with trade bringing in material such
as spiny oyster from its only source: off the
coast of Baja California. Evidence is abundant
that prehistoric Indians turned mined turquoise
into jewelry – drilled beads and
other ornamentation – with prehistoric mining
operations uncovered in New Mexico, Colorado and
the Kingman and Morenci regions of Arizona.
Descendants
of the Anasazi, Mogollon and Mimbres exist in
today’s Hopi
and Pueblo people, and with the Diné
(Navajo) arriving after the 14th century, and being greatly influenced
by the existing Pueblo cultures, the ancient ways carried on. Later,
as contact with the Spanish grew, their elaborate style of personal
adornment bore influence as well, as did certain Moorish-inspired
jewelry designs. Speculation remains as to what extent specific influence
was felt: while designs of pomegranate blossoms may have influenced
the well-known Diné (Navajo) Squash Blossom necklace, the
Diné word for the “squash blossom” bead is yo
ne maze disya gi, which simply means “bead that spreads out.”
Whether as spoils of conflict or successful trade, German silver,
copper and brass found their way into Native American jewelry as
well.
By
the mid-1800s the Diné
(Navajo) had learned silver making and these techniques
traveled throughout the region. Silver coins were melted
as were silver tea pots and candlesticks when special
orders from traders came in. The Zuñis, by the
time they learned silver making, were already skilled
metalworkers and, from prehistoric times, skilled lapidaries.
Today,
at Turquoise Tortoise Gallery, third generation
Diné (Navajo)
jewelers, David and Alice Lister, carry on silver-working
traditions with David making his own stamp dies
and Alice doing much of their lapidary work. Their
daughter, Dee Nez, has made her own jewelry since
a teenager; Alice’s grandfather, Many Arrows,
had used silver coins for silver-working in his
day. Jeweler Danny Romero, a Yaqui artist, was
one of five jewelers honored by President Reagan
at The Night of The First Americans in Washington
D.C. His intricate inlay work involves cutting
hundreds of different stones into precise shapes
to create portraits set in silver or gold. Native
American jewelry-making continues to evolve, as
it always has, representing some of the finest
craftsmanship today.
Unmatched craftsmanship
by many of the finest Native American jewelers
working today makes the Turquoise Tortoise Gallery
a destination gallery for anyone with an interest
in Native American jewelry.