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A Brief
History of Native American Jewelry in the Southwest |
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| Archeological evidence
shows that turquoise found in Hohokam excavations in southern
Arizona dates back to 200 B.C., even though turquoise, as a mineral
deposit, is found in only a limited region of the American
Southwest. Other stones were used as well, with trade bringing in
material such as spiny oyster from its only source: off the coast of
Baja California. Evidence is abundant that prehistoric Indians
turned mined turquoise into jewelry – drilled beads and other
ornamentation – with prehistoric mining operations uncovered in New
Mexico, Colorado and the Kingman and Morenci regions of Arizona.
Descendants of the Anasazi, Mogollon and
Mimbres exist in today’s Hopi and Pueblo people, and with the Diné
(Navajo) arriving after the 14th century, and being greatly
influenced by the existing Pueblo cultures, the ancient ways carried
on. Later, as contact with the Spanish grew, their elaborate style
of personal adornment bore influence as well, as did certain
Moorish-inspired jewelry designs. Speculation remains as to what
extent specific influence was felt: while designs of pomegranate
blossoms may have influenced the well-known Diné (Navajo) Squash
Blossom necklace, the Diné word for the “squash blossom” bead is yo
ne maze disya gi, which simply means “bead that spreads out.”
Whether as spoils of conflict or successful trade, German silver,
copper and brass found their way into Native American jewelry as
well. |
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| By the mid-1800s the Diné
(Navajo) had learned silver making and these techniques
traveled throughout the region. Silver coins were melted
as were silver tea pots and candlesticks when special
orders from traders came in. The Zuñis, by the time they
learned silver making, were already skilled metalworkers
and, from prehistoric times, skilled lapidaries.
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| Today, at Turquoise Tortoise Gallery,
third generation Diné (Navajo) jewelers, David and Alice Lister,
carry on silver-working traditions with David making his own stamp
dies and Alice doing much of their lapidary work. Their daughter,
Dee Nez, has made her own jewelry since a teenager; Alice’s
grandfather, Many Arrows, had used silver coins for silver-working
in his day. Jeweler Danny Romero, a Yaqui artist, was one of five
jewelers honored by President Reagan at The Night of The First
Americans in Washington D.C. His intricate inlay work involves
cutting hundreds of different stones into precise shapes to create
portraits set in silver or gold. Native American jewelry-making
continues to evolve, as it always has, representing some of the
finest craftsmanship today. |
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| Unmatched craftsmanship
by many of the finest Native American jewelers working
today makes the Turquoise Tortoise Gallery a destination
gallery for anyone with an interest in Native American
jewelry. |
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For confidential updates about our Southwestern and Contemporary Jewelry
collection- click here to register. |
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